When you think about the great life in the South—mint juleps on the veranda, gingerbread iron itemizing, substantial subtropical shade trees—you're thinking about the Garden District around St. Charles Avenue, where streetcars trundle by (passage still $1.25). A slight rise has ensured these houses from storm demolition for almost 200 years. Unquestionably an affluent enclave, where the four-jewel Commander's Palace is viewed as the neighborhood eatery, the locale is in no way, shape or form homogenous; its Orthodox Anshe Sfard synagogue, with 1926 electric light fittings, was established by Lithuanian Jews. Don't miss Lafayette Cemetery, a 180-year-old reliquary of terrific over-the-ground vau
